First and foremost, make sure that the HOTTAP is actually lighting. To do this, look through the slits at the front of HOTTAP, just above the control knobs. You should see a blue flame span the width of the burner. If you find that you don't see the flame on the burners, see this article.
HOTTAP Lights but but can only stay on 'LO' Water Pressure
Its easiest for HOTTAP to ignite on LO water flow. If you find that it works well on LO but then turns off when you adjust water flow upwards, the problem will be with your water supply. Try these things:
- Check for blockages in your water lines. In particular, the water inlet on the HOTTAP has a mesh filter inside the inlet that sometimes gets blocked with gunk and slows water flow down. To check this, unscrew your blue quick connect adapter on the water inlet, and look inside the brass inlet fitting to check to make sure the mesh is clear.
- If you're using a low voltage pump, check your specifications. On LO, HOTTAP requires 4LPM and 45kPa to ignite. On HI flow, it needs close to 6LPM and 65kPa, so make sure that your pump is sized adequately.
- If you are running on mains water, make sure that you open your garden hose tap fully (2+ turns).
HOTTAP lights up (on any water flow) but later turns off:
Firstly, what temperature is the water getting to? Remember that anything above 50C will kick in the safety circuit and turn the HOTTAP off, to prevent scalding. If this occurs, you'll need to turn the water flow off and back on to reignite the unit.
Secondly, make sure that the issue is not to do with water pressure. Check that the HOTTAP can ignite on high flow. If it can but later turns off, normally the issue is a wind related one. Even if you don't notice much of a breeze, wind can cause problems with proper operation.
The reason is that HOTTAP has a flame sensor as a safety component. This is designed to shut off gas supply to HOTTAP as soon as it notices that the flame has been extinguished (to stop gas from being pumped to an extinguished flame). What wind does is act to push the flame sideways or stretch it upwards which simulates a 'flame out' and causes the safety circuit to kick in.
Depending on the way your HOTTAP is setup, even a small breeze can cause problems. For example, if you have the HOTTAP set up against an external wall, such as a shed; a breeze can be 'caught' by the large flat surface and in effect multiple the effects of a breeze.
There are a few things we can do to remedy this, try the below:
- Firstly, its best to position the HOTTAP in an area enclosed from the wind (but still complying with ventilation requirements as outlined in the user guide). Even if you don't plan to use the HOTTAP in this area, doing this test to see if it stays on will tell us if the problem is indeed a wind issue or potentially something else.
- You can try to block the side air intake holes on the left and right hand side of the front panel on HOTTAP. The unit gets adequate ventilation from the bottom so there is no harm to block these, but it will help to block cross winds from entering through this area.
- The top panel of HOTTAP (black plate held in by 4 screws) has louver cutouts which face inside the unit. What can happen is that these louvers catch and direct wind inwards, which can cause problems. You are able to remove this panel and flip it around, so that the louvers are facing upwards. Doing this will help to push the wind up and away from the unit, rather than inside - especially for front facing winds.